Beyond the Big Three: Coloured Stones Worth Knowing

Ruby, sapphire and emerald get the attention. Spinel, tourmaline, aquamarine and garnet offer colour and character at a fraction of the price.

Ruby, sapphire and emerald are the big three, and they carry prices to match. There is a much wider world behind them, and for a client who wants colour rather than a particular name, it is where the value sits.

Spinel

For centuries spinel was mistaken for ruby, several famous "rubies" in historic crown jewels are spinel.

It occurs in vivid reds, hot pinks, and a remarkable grey-blue. It is hard enough for daily wear, and it is almost never treated, which is increasingly rare.

Why we like it. It offers the colour of fine ruby at a fraction of the price, with no treatment questions.

Tourmaline

The most varied gem family in common use, greens, pinks, blues, and bi-coloured crystals that shift along their length. Paraíba tourmaline, a neon blue-green, is among the most expensive gems in the world; ordinary tourmaline is very affordable.

Why we like it. Nothing else offers this range. For a client who wants a specific unusual colour, tourmaline usually has it.

Aquamarine

Pale blue to blue-green, in the beryl family alongside emerald, but far cleaner and more durable than emerald typically is. Available in large sizes at reasonable prices.

Why we like it. A large, clean, calm stone at a sane price. Excellent for a statement ring where a diamond of similar scale would be impossible.

Garnet

Dismissed as the cheap dark red stone, which is a misreading. Garnet also occurs in vivid green (tsavorite, genuinely rare and expensive), orange (spessartine) and a colour-changing variety.

Why we like it. Tsavorite is one of the most beautiful greens available and considerably harder-wearing than emerald.

The practical question: hardness

Colour is what people choose on. Hardness is what determines whether the piece survives.

For a ring worn daily, stay with harder species, sapphire, ruby, spinel, and to a degree tourmaline and aquamarine. Softer stones belong in earrings and pendants, where they are not struck against things.

Ask about hardness before you commit to a setting. It is the question that prevents the disappointment.

What we ask clients who want colour

Is there a colour she already wears? Look at her clothes, not her jewellery.

Is this for daily wear or occasion? This decides the species list before anything else.

Does the name matter? Some clients want sapphire specifically. Others want that blue. The second brief is far easier to serve well and usually costs less.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best alternative to a diamond?

For daily wear, sapphire or spinel.

Which coloured stones are hard enough for a ring?

Sapphire, ruby, spinel and, with care, tourmaline and aquamarine.

Are coloured stones cheaper than diamonds?

Usually, though fine ruby and Paraíba tourmaline exceed diamond prices.

Do coloured stones need certificates?

For significant purchases, yes, particularly to confirm treatment.

Book a complimentary design consultation at the C'Garden atelier, The MET Corporate Towers, Kuala Lumpur: 010-766 7448 · hq@cgarden.com.my

C'Garden is an independent bespoke jeweller in Kuala Lumpur. We are not affiliated with, endorsed by, sponsored by or certified by any organisation, laboratory or brand named in this article. Third-party names are used only to refer factually to those organisations and their published standards. All text and imagery in this article is original work created by C'Garden.

Reference

Gemological Institute of America. (n.d.). GIA gem encyclopedia. GIA. https://www.gia.edu/gem-encyclopedia